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This style of dress and ornament prevails mainly in the areas inhabited by what is commonly called the "White-collared Miaos", such as Sandu, Duyun and Danzhai counties in Guizhou province. For everyday dress, women's coats are short and button on the ritht. They are trimmed with floral borders about 3 centimetres wide around the shoulders and along the fronts and cuffs. For festive dress, the coats button on the left. The open front is a unique feature of the coat. The collar is somewhat ladder-shapped and the shoulders and sleeves are ornamented with fine, batik-dyed spiral patterns. The material is brownish yellow (dyed with ejuice of cape jasmine) in colour besides blue and white. The lower garments are trousers. On festive occasions women also wear skirts made by piecing together satin or cloth bands and ornamented with moire patterns. The indigo paste for this fabric is mixed with water buffalo blood. The fabric itself is a thick textured, handwoven cloth. It is hammered continuously with wooden mallets until a flat, smooth shiny, waterproof surface is obtained. Spiral designs on sleeves The spiral pattern has its origin in folk tales and has become a traditional design. It is called wuotuo in the Miao dialect of eastern Guizhou and is widely used by the Miao people everywhere. Women in Danzhai county, commonly called the "white-collared Miaos", like to adorn the shoulders and sleeves of their coats with this design. Why do they use the spiral design? One legend says that in the past the Miao people had the custom to slaughter oxen to offer sacrifices to their ancesters. Woment began to weave or print the spiral design on their coats in imitation of those on the ox head. This custom has been handed down to the present from generation to generation to show their respect for and reminiscences of their ancesters. Another legend goes that once upon a time a clever and skillful girl was infected with a disease. Whatever medicine she had taken could not cure her illness. Her mother once plucked a tender plant called "cock grass" and boil it gently in a pot as a herb medicine for her. Soon after taking the herbal medicine, she was fully recovered. She drew a design after the model of the tender plant and printed her coat with such designs as a memorial of her recovery. Condition: Shoulder
seam to seam: 16" It's entirely done by hand sewn, good conditions. Early to mid-20th century. To learn more hill tribe techniques of making textile please click here: |